Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) and their answers
by John Papadopoulos
Q: What is the minimum racing weight for a Lido 14?
A: The minimum weight for the boat and equipment is 310 pounds. This includes the hull, complete rudder system, complete centerboard system, complete mast and boom systems, all running and standing rigging, and any permanently installed equipment. Permanently installed equipment generally includes any items that can only be removed using tools (wrenches, screw drivers, etc.) though may include items that have been installed using knotted ropes, etc. For example, a bow line that is tied securely to the boat is usually considered to be permanently installed. Sails, whisker pole, cushions, and any items that are readily removable (clip on compass, for example) are NOT included in this measurement. Lastly, the boat's weight measurement must be done when the boat and equipment are dry (check inside the boat's flotation areas for water).
Q: What is the minimum weight for crew and skipper?
A: The minimum Class racing weight for crew and skipper (combined) is 300 pounds. This measurement allows for all the gear you will wear while racing so long as you wear all that gear while racing. Technically, the Racing Rules of Sailing permit you to measure in with wet clothing (up to certain limit of added water weight) however if your clothing dries out during sailing and your weight falls below the 300 pound minimum, you would be illegal. Thus, it is highly recommended that crew and skipper weigh in with dry clothing that they will wear for certain at all times (hiking boots, PFD, etc.).
This crew/skipper weight is independent of the 310 pound weight requirement for the boat. In other words, if you and your crew weighed 290 pounds, you would have to carry 10 pound irrespective or your boat's weight - even if your boat weighs 10 pounds more than the 320 pound minimum!
Q: How sensitive is the Lido 14 to weight of the crew?
A: Here's a statistical look at the issue. The 2001 Class Championship crew weights were measured as part of registration. It's the one time of the year when a consistent measurement can be made. The minimum (unhandicapped) weight was 270.5#. The average was 332.12# The maximum was 453.5#. The following is the distribution of crews at a given racing weight (including required crew handicap weight).
300-309#: 15 (of which 7 weighed in at 300#...most with handicap weights)
310-319#: 5
320-329#: 2
330-339#: 5
340-349#: 3
350-359#: 3
360-369#: 2
370-379#: 4
380-389#: 1
390-399#: 0
400-499#: 2
Q: Can I race solo/single handed?
A: Class rules require a minimum of 2 people on board. There is no maximum.
Q: Is there a manual or diagram showing how to rig the Lido 14?
A: Sort of. The W.D. Schock Corp. product manual for the Lido 14 shows some of the rigging. If you have questions concerning rigging, please feel free to send them to Webmaster John Papadopoulos (lido14@lid14.org) and we'll help you out.
Q: Where can I get spare parts for my Lido 14?
A: Many Classic Lido 14 parts and all 6000 series parts are available thru W.D. Schock Corp. or its dealers. You might try your luck at used boat parts stores too.
Q: What should I look for in a used Lido 14?
A: Read the detailed information in the "Lido Bits and Pieces" article found on this website.
Q: Where is the hull/serial number of my Lido 14?
A: For boats built since the early 1970's, the serial number of the hull is embedded into the gel coat on the transom (usually upper right hand side). The code is of the form WDSHXXXXYYYY where XXXX is the serial number and YYYY is a date code. For boats built prior to this coding, the serial number was written in black ink or paint (using about 2" high numbers) on the cockpit side of the transom below the tiller opening. This was then covered with the fiberglass on the transom which, in turn, was painted. A mask was placed over the number so that the paint didn't cover the fiberglass. This made a window of sorts thru which the serial number could be read. Most boats of this age have either been repainted or the fiberglass has oxidized and become opaque. In either case, the only way to prove the hull number is to remove the paint and perhaps the fiberglass.
Q: The Lido 14 seems to be sailed with a really loose rig. Is this normal and why?
A: It is normal for racers because it maximizes performance. Briefly, the Class rules require that the jib sheet pass outside of the shrouds. When sailing upwind, the leeward shroud prevents the jib from being sheeted in all the way. By loosening up the rigging, the leeward shroud sags and allows the jib sheet to come inboard more, thus trimming the jib in tighter. In addition, the loose rigging style allows the mast to pitch forward when sailing downwind. As is the case in many different types of boats, allowing the mast to lean forward makes the boat go faster downwind. If you never intend to race, it is safer to sail with rigging tight enough to keep the mast from pitching fore/aft, especially if you sail in heavier winds.
Q: How often should I check and replace my standing rigging (forestay & shrouds)?
A: Racers use the rule of thumb of replacing their standing rigging about every 18 months. Inspect the fittings at least every 6 months for signs of excessive rusting, broken strands, severe kinks and bends. If in doubt, replace them. The rigging fittings tend to fail because the junction between the wire and the end fittings is excessively stressed every time the mast pitches. Vibrations while trailering also fatigue this junction. In one design classes where the boat is subject to more intense conditions than a Lido 14, it is common to remove the rigging from the mast or securely tape the rigging to the mast when trailering. Lido 14s are usually rigged with the standing rigging bolted in place so we tend not to remove it for our road journeys. Whether or not you remove the rigging, play it safe and inspect them often and replace them on a regular basis.
Q: I have an old Lido 14 with a badly faded hull and deck. I'm thinking of painting it. What do you recommend?
A: A purist answer is to never paint over the original gel coat but to bring it back to its original luster by polishing/buffing. Evercoat Marine's "Boat Armor Heavy Duty Fiberglass Rubbing Compound" will do miracles in these situations and there isn't any follow up maintenance as there would be with paint. If you really feel that painting is your best option, a professionally applied Linear Polyurethane (LP) paint job is probably the best route to go.
Q: My trailer has left indentations on my hull. What should I do?
A: Often times, flipping the boat upside down and baking the hull in the sun will help pop some of these indentations out. Regardless, you should consider revamping your trailer so that the bunks go athwartships (side to side) and are shaped to the curvature of the hull to spread the load more evenly.
Q: My hull has little bumps like a rash. What are these and what should I do?
A: Your boat has the case of the blisters. Blisters form when water, through osmosis, migrates through the gel coat into the fiberglass of the hull. The water collects and creates a blister of water and dissolved resin. Once a blister has formed, all you can really do is dig it out, let it dry, and patch it. As most marine blister repair manuals will tell you, there is no permanent fix to the problem - blisters tend to come back. Once repaired, you want to focus on why water was trapped against the hull long enough for this osmosis to happen. If you leave your boat in the water for long periods, your only choice will be to put a water barrier coating on the hull. If you store you Lido 14 on a trailer and have blisters, they are probably right where the trailer bunks touch the hull. In this case, the solution is to change your bunks (or the padding on them) to allow more air to pass between the hull and bunk so it dries nicely after each sail. Note that virgin gel coat has a very smooth outer layer which has an increased resistance to water migration. Sanding and buffing new gel coat takes away the surface layer of gel coat which exposes a more porous inner layer. Thus, once a boat has been sanded, you have to worry about blister formation and accumulation of other gunk that would naturally have been repelled by the virgin gel coat.
Q: How should I prepare my hull to achieve maximum performance?
A: First note that in August of 2001, the Class Assn. abolished Bylaw XIII.8 which prohibited use of friction reducing compounds on the wetted surface of the hull. Having said that, your goal is to minimize drag. An ultra ultra smooth finish to your gel coat is, for several reasons, your best solution. If your Lido 14 hull is new and has never been sanded or buffed, the original gel coat surface is sufficiently smooth. Simply keep it clean with detergent and solvents such as acetone. If your hull has been sanded or buffed, keep it clean as mentioned before and occasionally buff it to a highly polished (mirror like) sheen. Avoid buffing compounds containing waxes or coatings. Clean off all buffing residue using acetone or similar solvents so that only original gel coat is present. If you cannot afford the time or money to have the hull buffed frequently (about once a year depending on use), you can protect your investment by applying a protective coating such as Star Brite - Premium Marine Polish with Teflon. Teflon and wax based coatings, however, tend to attract dirt which creates yet another problem.
Of special note is McLube Sailkote, a product now well know in the marine industry. Originally engineered as a mold release compound, it has found uses in virtually every part of a boat (except where you need to stand or sit!). McLube recommends a power sprayer to help control application of Sailkote to a hull to get the thickness right. If you apply too much you may be in for a bit of trouble and it is so tenacious that you won't get it off without lots of work. Play it safe and stick with polishing the original gel coat.
On a more theoretical note, minimum drag is provided when the surface is hydrodynamically smooth. A surface can be considered hydrodynamically smooth when the surface roughness is small in relation to the thin boundary layer formed adjacent to the hull. This layer ranges in thickness as a function of speed through the water however on a Lido 14 it will be in the neighborhood of 2 thousandths of an inch. A human hair is about 3 thousandths of an inch thick. A general rule of thumb is that if you can feel irregularities in the finish, it's not smooth enough. [References: "Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing" by C.A. Marchaj, "Theory of Wing Sections" by Abbott and Doenhoff, "High Performance Sailing" by Frank Bethwaite].