Used Lido 14 Buyer's Guide
Reprinted from the Fremont, CA Lido Fleet (62) Web Page (http://www.christman.org/fsc/lido)
You can buy a used Lido 14 for anywhere from $800.00 to $2500.00 depending on the condition of the boat, sails, trailer and other miscellaneous hardware. Since you are buying into a STRICT one-design class, a boat that was built back in the 1960's is as potentially as good as one built in the 1990's. If you see a Lido 14 that you are thinking about buying, contact a local fleet in your area, as they would be happy to give you advice. In fact, they often already know about the boat and can give you additional information about it.
The following is a quick guide to use while inspecting a used Lido 14 that you are considering for purchase.
1.Check the hull over to see that it is free of big dings, scratches, and blisters. An older boat may have quite a few scratches on the sides where it comes into contact with the dock. This is normal as long as it hasn't hit something hard enough to crack or bend the hull. Hulls with blisters are extremely rare. It's probably best to avoid a hull with blisters unless you really like working on boat hulls in your spare time.
2.If you eventually plan on racing the boat, the bottom should be smooth. Small scratches may be sanded out.
3.The transom at the back of the boat is plywood. If it has not been taken care of, the area around the oval where the rudder and tiller attach may be weak or cracked.
4.Check the screws that holds the track for the traveler onto the transom, these should be holding firm. Note: I have unofficial word that the class rules now allow you to remove this track and replace it with a bridle arrangement.
5. Check the corners of transom to see if the wood block used to join the transom and the rail together is intact.
6.Check the condition of the rub rail that covers the joint where the hull and the deck meet. The rub rail is often stocked by the W.D. Schock Corp. The price is typically several hundred dollars to for new rub rails. The cost is due to the low volume of rub rail produced by the original manufacturer.
1. Four screws hold the mast step (where the mast attaches to the deck). The 4 screws should be tight enough to prevent the mast step from moving sideways. If they are really loose you can drop in a couple of matchsticks and some glue and then re-screw them in. Beware of boats that have had these screws replaced by bolts. The mast step is built to pull out of the deck to prevent the mast from being bent if a shroud line breaks or the mast is run into some overhead obstacle. This allows the mast to fall over the side of the boat instead of bending. Check the fiberglass around this area for large cracks that might affect the strength of the deck.
2.The earlier boats originally came out with gold colored aluminum cleats and tracks. These cleats are obsolete and not obtainable. To replace them you will have to replace the track and everything else. This may run you about $80-$100 per side.
3.On the bow of the boat, check the holes in the fitting where the fore stay and jib attach. This is a cast fitting and the holes may become worn and weak. If the holes are too worn you may remove the fitting and have the holes soldered shut and re-drilled.
4.Look at the Aluminum through-deck fittings where the shroud lines go through the deck. The fittings should be solidly attached and not worn through.
5.Under the bow of the boat there are two angle brackets that are fiberglassed onto the inside of the hull to support the deck. They are located on both the port and starboard sides of the boat about even with the mast. These brackets may show some separation from the deck and this is an acceptable condition. Separation from the hull is unacceptable and will require it to be ground out and re-fiberglassed.
1.Examine the centerboard trunk. There are two support brackets that are fiberglassed onto the floor and onto the sides of the trunk. Verify that they are not cracked or broken out.
2.Look underneath the boat from the transom, check the hull around the centerboard trunk to make sure that the hull is not dished up into the boat or cracked.
3.Are there cross braces that attach from the front of the centerboard trunk to the front of the side flotation tanks (seats)?
•YES. Check to see that the cross braces are attached firmly onto the centerboard trunk and to the front of the flotation tanks.
•NO. Check to see if the centerboard trunk does not have any side to side play. These cross braces were not original equipment, but if you purchase the boat you may wish to add these cross braces.
4.Take a tape measure and measure from the sides of the centerboard trunk to both sides of the hull just in front of the flotation tanks (seats). These measurements should not differ by more than 3/4 of an inch.
5.The teak cap on the top of the centerboard trunk should be free of cracks and in good condition. The forward 6-inch-piece, in its normal position, acts as a stop and should prevent the centerboard arm from slipping back into the trunk.
6.There are two screws that hold the centerboard assembly in place. The wood molding that these screws are screwed into should not be rotted or soft. On some older boats these screws may have been replaced with bolts which is acceptable.
•MAST & BOOM
1.Check the boom to see if it is straight. A very slight bow would probably be ok. Check all attachments to verify that they are tight. Loose or missing pop rivets can be easily replaced.
2. The boom vang attachment point on the floor of the boat should be firmly attached.
3.Check the mast for straightness. If the mast has been dropped there may a slight bend fore and aft. If there is a slight bend port to starboard the wire guides may need to be adjusted. Check all fittings.
4.Check the chain plates where the shroud lines attach to the flotation tanks (seats). They should be solidly attached and not bent. A new pair of shroud lines will run about $80.00 and a new fore stay about $25.
5.The boom attaches to the mast with a gooseneck fitting. Make sure that this fitting is not missing.
1.The centerboard and rudder can be either wood or fiberglass. They should be checked for cracks and dings.
2.There are two holes on the front of each flotation tank (seat). Stick your finger into them to check the condition of the plywood that makes up the tank. The plywood should be dry and not rotted.
3.Check for cracks where the flotation tanks (seats) meet the hull.
4.There should be a whisker pole present. It should be straight and have an overall length of 6 feet.
5.Check the condition of the sails. Place the three battens into the main sail. They should be the correct length and fit snugly into the batten pockets. The batten pockets typically have an elastic strap which keeps the battens pushing out against the leach of the sail. Make sure the elastic is not worn out. If the sails have windows, pay extra attention to their condition. A new set of sails will run between $500 and $800. Rolled sails are a good indication of a caring owner. Folded sails leave lots of creases which distort the sail shape and prematurely break down the finish coat of the sail cloth. For beginning and perhaps intermediate racing, this shouldn't be a cause for alarm. For cruisers, go by what looks to be strong and healthy and, if you care, what looks good.
6.Ask if there is a measurement certificate.
7.The sail numbers should match the hull number. Check this number against the title. Most hull numbers are either pressed or laminated into the transom or painted under the bow.
8.Is there a fitted boat cover and is it in good condition? A custom fitted boat cover, which can cover the boat while the mast is up, runs between $225 and $325.
1.Check the general condition of the trailer. Check the frame for straightness. Check for extreme rust.
2.Check the condition of the bunks that cradle the boat. They should have carpet on them to protect the finish of the boat and be in good condition.
3.Do the signal lights (turn/stop) work properly.
4.Check the hitch ball coupler on the tongue of the trailer. On some older trailers it may be bent or not operating properly.
5.If possible jack the trailer up and check for play in the wheel bearings. The wheels should roll freely and smoothly. Severely neglected wheel bearings may require costly replacement of the axle spindles. Grossly uneven tire wear may indicate axle or spindle problems.
6.Check the serial number on the trailer against the title.